Wednesday, 22 May 2013

The Dolphin Coast

North of Durban is a stretch of beautiful coastline called the Dolphin Coast, named after the bottlenose dolphins attracted by the continental shelf and warm water conditions.  It's a gorgeous, hilly region that has been developed in a kind of low key Sunshine Coast fashion.  Lots of condominiums and apartments for rent, but also home to many permanent residents.

It's easy to think that you are not actually in Africa when you come here. There is a predominant whiteness about the place - the few black Africans we saw were either selling plastic beach toys on the street corner, or early morning domestics and gardeners walking to work.



Nevertheless, it's a lovely little spot to relax, while still being close enough to Durban should you want to get into the city and do a spot of shopping.



Ballito

Pretty much the whole of KwaZulu-Natal has some important connection to the Zulu Kingdom. Despite feeling like a white enclave, our accommodation in Ballito was not far from a beach called Shakas Rock, reputedly a place on the coast where King Shaka used to bring his warriors for disciplinary action.  It seems the discipline was more often than not a little heavy handed, and most warriors did not return from their stern talking to (ouch).

The tidal pool pictured above was just below our accommodation and held the most incredible array of fish. Juvenile lion fish, parrot fish, wrasse and all sorts of coloured corals, urchins and sea anemones - again, testament to the warm waters of the region. The only rules are no fishing, and no releasing sharks into the pool!


Accommodation


Our accommodation was in one of these little aquamarine coloured apartments pictured from the beach (above). Despite being in Shaka country, the universal appeal of pastel coloured dolphins and other sea creatures was evident and made us feel like we could have been in any seaside holiday locale...
 


Like a Sunrise
Well, here it is, the sun rising over the water.  The look on William's face was very cute as we explained to him that we are on the other side of the Indian Ocean now. Perth is just one rather long swim away...plus or minus a diversion through Madagascar.


The Waterberry Tea Gardens and the Lichi Orchard Markets

Always on the hunt for a good coffee, we managed to find yet another oasis in the Waterberry Tea Gardens.  The place is surrounded by a tract of beautiful forrest complete with a walk track.  Hard to imagine how they have held onto so much land this close to the beach when the rest of the region has been developed to within an inch of its life.
And then we found the Lichi Orchard Markets - thriving little place with all sorts of local produce.  Not yet satisfied with our coffee fix, Simon and I had to sample another 2 coffee outlets, as well as several of the little cake shops and bakers....Also took home some delicious smoked venison sausage which I have since cooked up into a lovely pasta sauce.  Yummm.
And so...
...our little trip to Ballito was really inspired by the fact that it was close to Umhlanga where we were picking up our new car!  We were pleasantly surprised by what we found in our short visit, and will definitely be back to explore a little more.